I have no idea if Sharon was ready to publish and forgot about it (too much work gone into it) or if she had published it as a post somewhere and this just needed to be deleted.
I will talk about equipment either from the view of what I use now, or have in the past, and if I don't use it anymore, I'll say why. There are many brands I haven't used, but I'd suggest you visit You Tube for videos on that item, as I don't have the knowledge to advise. Although it appears I have a lot of tools and kit, I've been doing this for well over 20 years now, so it's been collected over a long time.
So we'll start with real basics, and my first basic area is going to be:
A craft knife with replaceable blades will be essential, and here we to need to be clever, and careful. There are many, many brands of Craft knife out there, most of them reasonably priced when first bought, because they make their money on all the replacement blades you need to buy. Often they're sold in packs of 5, which will not last you long. You do not want to be cutting with a dull blade, as that will give a ragged edge, and spoil the look of your project.
This is just one area where it pays to look at other options, not just 'Craft Branded' products, you will discover that being a 'Craft' product tends to increase the price, sometimes considerably.
Now we'll move up a scale, and get to Paper Trimmers and Guillotines. I bought a 12" X-Cut guillotine about 15 years ago. I sort of think that maybe they were manufactured by Tonic, as it's identical to the Tonic/Tim Holtz guillotine. It has good clear markings moulded into the platform, an important point, as markings printed on can fade and wear off over time.
All I can say is that it cuts as well today as it did the day I bought it.The beauty with a guillotine is that they are self sharpening, so no blade replacement, ever. The actual platform is about 6" wide, but does have a detachable extension ruler to take it to 12".This is stored in the underneath of the body, out of the way.
I also have a smaller 6" one, which I was gifted, and again, that's pushing 10 years old, and cuts easily and cleanly. They are my go to for neat clean cuts.
I also have a rotary paper trimmer, I got a good deal on a Carl one with an assortment of fancy blades, which is great for cutting various fancy edges on card & paper, but again, this has consumables. There are also many brands of fancy edged scissors to do this job, I'm just terrible at cutting straight lines😀. Not just the blades, although they do last a long time, but also a thin strip 'cutting mat', which wears out quite regularly. You get a groove cut into it from the blade, and then the cuts cease to be as clean as you'd want.
You will also need a ruler- one with a steel edge so you can cut against it and the blade won't cut into it.
The clear ruler on the left is the Tim Holtz one to go with the glass mat, really not a necessity at all. The T ruler is in the middle, you'll get them at any good stationers, or Amazon, and on the right my steel edged Tim Holtz ruler. It is marked in inches, which may be a problem for you, but there are plenty of clear rulers, with a steel edge, in metric form from various craft companies. I'm old enough to be used to Imperial, so find it no problem, and I also like that as well as the standard linear 1-12 inches, it's also marked from the centre out in both directions, which is often useful. It also has a line of holes along one edge, for piercing holes, or making marks to line up embellishments. Whichever ruler you get, just make sure it's a clear one, not coloured. Made that mistake once, was almost impossible to see what I was doing with it.
A pencil and sharpener, and then we come to erasers. A standard pencil eraser, and another great one to have is a Tombow Sand Eraser. They are really good at removing accidental ink marks, and also stray flecks of embossing powder after it's been heated. An Adhesive eraser can be a life saver at times, just let the adhesive dry first.
There are tape runners, from the small 'snail' type ones, to larger, and certainly more cost effective, ATG, (Advanced Tape Glider) guns. Then you have DST, (Double sided Tape), glue dots, silicone glue such as Pinflair, foam DST and foam pads. Each has their uses, and in most cases are the best for a particular job.
Starting with 'wet' liquid glues most are a PVA type, like the old school glue. Definitely a must have, and preferably one that dries clear. I have collected a few over the years- Honey Doo, Indigo Blu, Cosmic Shimmer, Tombow Mono Multi all work extremely well. Many people use these to attach layers on their cards, and get on fine with them, it just needs some practice to get it close the the edges and corners to hold everything securely, without oozing out and ruining your project. I rarely use wet glues for this reason, and in general, the only thing I use them for is adding glitter to the reverse of images stamped on acetate. I hate seeing any peeling up corners or edges, so my preference has been to use DST.
This comes in quite a variety of widths, and a roll goes a long way. You can also usually get good deals on them at Craft shows too.
Glue dots can be very useful for attaching heavy or oddly shaped embellishments, or for joining the ends of ribbon together, or for attaching ribbon bows.
Pinflair glue, or silicone glue I use for that reason too, and also for when I am matting and layering onto glitter cardstock. Because the surface is uneven, DST wont work here, so I find a thin layer of this holds nicely. It is also great if, for instance, you want to layer up a flower, and for decoupage, as you can adjust the height easily with this. Foam pads are also used for this, but you have no ability to adjust the height.
Collall Photo glue is a good one for sticking collage pieces together, although it tends to be a bit stringy- like bostick- for me to use it too often. As I mentioned at the beginning of this bit, everyone has their own favourite, so I'd really suggest getting a roll of DST, maybe a snail runner, and a small bottle of a good wet glue, and seeing which you prefer. Don't buy huge amounts- even to save money in the long run- until you know which you prefer to work with.
And now we come to one of the most basic of all the basics you will need-
Cardstock is defined by weight, here in the UK it's known as GSM, or Grams per Square Metre.
In this, the lower the number, the lighter it's weight, for instance copy/printer paper is usually around 80 gsm. For making cards, especially card bases,you want a cardstock that is at least 210gsm, ideally 240gsm and above. The greater the weight of your card for the base, the sturdier your card will be. It will take embellishments well, and stand up properly, no matter what orientation you are using.
You can use cardstock of 150gsm and above for the matting layers on a card.
Card bases can be bought pre made & scored, ready for you to fold. My first advice here is only buy one pack of your choice, and see what you think about the look, feel and most importantly, quality. Pretty much the only pre- made card bases I buy are 6,7 & 8 inch square, as I can't make those from A4 cardstock.
These often come with what is known as a Bone Folder- they aren't made from bone any longer, usually plastic, but can be used for scoring your card, then running over the creased fold to make it nice and crisp. Personally, I prefer to use an Embossing stylus, and I have a plastic piece from a clay working set for the folds.
Paper can either be solid coloured, or with images/patterns on, known as Designer Paper pads (DP).
If you are buying ready made card bases, they usually come with envelopes, but if you are making your own card bases, then envelopes are something you will need to purchase. They can usually be purchased from the same companies as your cardstock, and you generally have a wide range of both colours and sizes to choose from.
Once you've made your card(s), you will need to store them, and cellophane bags for this can be purchased, in a huge variety of sizes. Even if they are just for your own personal use, popping them into a bag is a good idea, as it helps to protect them and keep them clean.
Finally,a pair of tweezers and a pokey tool can both be invaluable. Tweezers come in many styles, I just bought fine pointed medical ones, but many people like 'reverse' tweezers- you squeeze them to release what you are holding, and just hold normally to pick things up.The pokey tool to make holes for decorative purposes, or to thread decorative yarn through.
This has run to quite a long post, so I'm going to end it here, as we have covered all the real basics.
You can find me on my own blog, here;https://silverwolfcards-shaz.blogspot.com/